The return of the neighbourhood bar
It used to be all about the wine line-up, but now it's also about the food, design and ambience. Welcome to the new-look neighbourhood bar where everybody knows your name.
STORY Elizabeth Clarke
Le Rebelle
Imagine you've joined the mass Euro-summer exodus with this little slice of Paris on Beaufort Street, Mount Lawley. Owners Sarah and Liam Atkinson describe their renovated 1920s establishment as "French-ish", with its lofty ceilings, sexy ambience, and three levels of wining and dining.
"We looked to favourite Parisian bistros in New York like Balthazar with great wines and amazing French food," says Sarah, who has curated the wine offering of French top drops and smaller local brands.
Chef Liam, formerly of Print Hall, Ku De Ta, Star Anise, Kitsch Bar and Lalla Rookh, knows better than anyone how to give local produce a European twist. Regulars clamour for classics like glazed Wagin duck, frites and bearnaise, and their signature crab toast, both menu mainstays from day one.
"We are obsessed with cheese and make our own from guernsey cows’ milk fresh from the South West, and goat's milk from Bookara in Dongara," says Sarah, who adds that their crottin-style goat's cheese served with house-made preserves is not to be missed.
Vin Populi
Out of Fremantle's clutch of neighboured-style bars, Vin Populi (pronounced “pop-you-lee” and Italian for “wine for the people”) is the one Perthites are crossing the bridge for. "We wanted to bring to Freo what we love most about Italy and its neighbour bars, where you can enjoy a good glass of wine and plate of pasta any time of day," says co-owner Emma Ferguson of Italian meccas No Mafia and Balthazar.
Along with partner Dan Morris, Emma collaborated with East Fremantle design practice, Rezen, on the bar's interiors, where the Italian institution, Roma, stood for 60 years. Emma says the restaurant's history visually and emotionally impacted the design process. "We took the site over from Lucy, the daughter of Roma's original owner Frank, and she met with our two daughters and me and was so happy to be handing the keys on to another family," she says.
The menu, by head chef Leo Crescenzi, who hails from Lazio, makes a strong case for Fremantle as the flavour capital of WA. Reading like a “love letter to Italy”, it is smart, fresh and stylish with standouts including authentic antipasti and lobster fresh from Fremantle harbour served alongside handmade pasta prepared daily.
"As in Italy, we only drink [wines originating] where we are from," says Emma of their impressive wine offering. "It's all about wine, and you won't find a single bottle of South Australian here!" she laughs. The exception? A good line-up of Italian drops – as there should be.
Lums Wine Bar
Once upon a time, 433 Hay Street was home to EA Lums Grocery and General Store, the go-to for hungry and discerning Subiaco foodies. Fast-forward 100 years, and it is still frequented by locals but of the more wine-loving variety.
Lums is owned by the team behind Bark, the West Aussie-themed bar just up the road. "Bark copped it during the pandemic and has been a slow burn, but Lums has come out of the gate," says co-owner Mitch Jenkin. "We've learned lessons and know our community."
Ordering a glass of wine can sometimes feel daunting and Mitch says it was important that Lums be honest, friendly and welcoming. "We have around 20-30 wines by the glass that are local and international, especially Spanish, and that also ties in with the food," he says.
Chef Nicholas Young, formerly of Bivouac, Wildflower and Cullen Wines, takes a decidedly Australian approach to Spanish classics, which, says Mitch, has taken their food offering to the next level.
"The dishes coming out of the kitchen have surpassed expectations," he says of crowd pleasers including pillowy soft gnocchi with confit tomatoes, mushrooms, smoked soy and creme fraiche, and burrata with figs, tomato salad and green raisins.
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